Exploring this World's Most Haunted Woodland: Twisted Trees, UFOs and Eerie Tales in Transylvania.
"Locals dub this spot the Bermuda Triangle of Transylvania," explains a local guide, his breath creating wisps of condensation in the crisp dusk atmosphere. "Countless people have disappeared here, some say it's a portal to a different realm." This expert is leading a visitor on a night walk through what is often described as the planet's most ghostly grove: Hoia-Baciu, a section spanning 640 acres of old-growth indigenous forest on the fringes of the metropolis of Cluj-Napoca.
Hundreds of Years of Enigma
Stories of strange happenings here go back centuries – the forest is called after a local shepherd who is reportedly went missing in the far-off times, along with two hundred animals. But Hoia-Baciu came to international attention in 1968, when an army specialist known as Emil Barnea took a picture of what he reported as a UFO suspended above a circular clearing in the middle of the forest.
Many came in here and failed to return. But rest assured," he states, facing the traveler with a grin. "Our excursions have a perfect safety record."
In the years that followed, Hoia-Baciu has brought in yogis, spiritual healers, UFO researchers and paranormal investigators from across the world, curious to experience the unusual forces believed to resonate through the forest.
Contemporary Dangers
Although it is a top global pilgrimage sites for supernatural fans, the forest is under threat. The western suburbs of Cluj-Napoca – a modern tech hub of a population exceeding 400,000, known as the innovation center of the region – are advancing, and construction companies are advocating for approval to clear the trees to erect housing complexes.
Except for a small area housing area-specific Mediterranean oak trees, this woodland is not officially protected, but Marius believes that the initiative he co-founded – a local conservation effort – will help to change that, motivating the authorities to appreciate the forest's importance as a tourist attraction.
Eerie Encounters
As twigs and autumn leaves break and crackle beneath their footwear, Marius recounts various traditional stories and claimed ghostly incidents here.
- A well-known account recounts a five-year-old girl going missing during a family outing, later to reappear after five years with complete amnesia of the events, without aging a moment, her attire shy of the slightest speck of dirt.
- More common reports explain cellphones and imaging devices inexplicably shutting down on stepping into the forest.
- Feelings range from absolute fear to feelings of joy.
- Certain individuals state observing bizarre skin irritations on their skin, perceiving unseen murmurs through the forest, or feel palms pushing them, even when sure they are alone.
Research Efforts
Despite several of the accounts may be hard to prove, there is much visibly present that is definitely bizarre. Everywhere you look are trees whose trunks are warped and gnarled into bizarre configurations.
Multiple explanations have been given to clarify the abnormal growth: strong gales could have bent the saplings, or inherently elevated radiation levels in the earth cause their strange formation.
But scientific investigations have found no satisfactory evidence.
The Notorious Meadow
The expert's tours enable guests to engage in a modest investigation of their own. Upon reaching the opening in the forest where Barnea captured his renowned UFO photographs, he hands his guest an EMF meter which registers electromagnetic fields.
"We're stepping into the most powerful section of the forest," he states. "Discover what's here."
The trees immediately cease as the group enters into a perfect circle. The only greenery is the low vegetation beneath our feet; it's clear that it hasn't been mown, and looks that this bizarre meadow is natural, not the work of people.
Between Reality and Imagination
This part of Romania is a location which stirs the imagination, where the border is unclear between truth and myth. In rural Romanian communities superstition remains in strigoi ("screamers") – supernatural, form-changing bloodsuckers, who return from burial sites to frighten local communities.
The famous author's renowned fictional vampire is always connected with Transylvania, and the historic stronghold – an ancient structure located on a rocky outcrop in the Carpathian Mountains – is heavily promoted as "the count's residence".
But despite legend-filled Transylvania – actually, "the territory after the grove" – feels real and understandable compared to this spooky forest, which give the impression of being, for reasons radioactive, atmospheric or entirely legendary, a nexus for fantasy projection.
"Inside these woods," Marius says, "the line between fact and fiction is extremely fine."